For the timeless and the effortless
In the Cab With
Suzanne Koller
A Q&A on Reinventing Yourself, Image-making and Storytelling, Simplicity and Minimalism, and Suzanne Koller's Seven Easy Pieces
by Bart Kooi
As the co-founder of Self Service Magazine, where she served as Fashion and Creative Director for 20 years, Koller revolutionized fashion publishing. Today, she continues to push the boundaries of fashion editorials and cultural storytelling, placing women’s unique personalities at the heart of the stories she tells. Whether styling for leading brand campaigns, contributing to influential publications, or consulting on global projects, Koller’s multidisciplinary, minimalist approach continues to shape the fashion landscape.
In this week's article: "In the Cab With Suzanne Koller" a Q&A with a very Cabmate stylist, consultant, and art director who believes that "it takes a certain level of self-confidence to strip things down to the bare essentials”.
You have been making your mark in the industry since the early ‘90s. What sparked your initial interest in fashion? And is it still this initial thing that excites you today?
Fashion became an obsession for me as a teenager. I started educating myself by buying and collecting my first fashion magazines, including French Vogue, i-D, and The Face. I was fascinated by the self-expression that clothes can convey — and I still am. I constantly try to understand and analyze why people dress the way they do.
In 1994 you co-founded Self Service, where you decided to take on the role of fashion editor yourself, despite having a background in graphic design. How has “learning by doing” influenced your approach to styling?
I believe “learning by doing” is one of the more challenging ways to learn, but it definitely teaches you through your failures as well. It’s certainly a more intense and efficient approach to gaining knowledge. Styling helped me refine my ability to tell stories. I realized I could collaborate more closely with the team and the photographer, actively participating in the process of creating images.
You’ve described yourself as more of a storyteller than a stylist. Did taking a multidisciplinary approach shape you into a storyteller? Or has this storytelling approach always been a part of you?
I’m interested in documenting various characters, capturing both their strength and fragility. I aim to highlight self-expression through clothing and how it can transform a person’s attitude. Clothes are a tool; I like them to be part of the scene or scenario, but not the focal point.
I like to see my work as documentation, not in the sense of simply reproducing what is visible, but as a testimony to what the subject evokes in me.
Today, with social media, the approach to image-making and storytelling has completely shifted. Virtually everyone becomes a storyteller, but how compelling are all these stories, really? We’re inundated with images to the point of saturation, which forces us as creators to question our roles and continually reinvent ourselves.
“Reinventing yourself” is also your life mantra, while you’ve maintained a signature style of timeless fashion. How do you balance between reinventing yourself and keeping the signature style you’re known for?
Reinvention is about moving forward — it’s something that should be part of every creative person. I feel the need to reinvent myself to stay engaged and avoid becoming repetitive, both for myself and for others.
At every moment in your life, it’s important to remain curious and ask yourself: “What can I learn from this?” My signature style emerges naturally, shaped by intuition and my personal fashion obsessions.
What are the sources you usually turn to for inspiration?
I’m constantly seeking inspiration, every moment of the day. I believe that in the creative field, it’s essential to stay alert and find excitement in everything we do. I need this kind of food for thought.
The key is to remain connected and curious, especially about things that are new to you. Embrace them, make them your own, and let them shape your perspective. In many ways, my mind serves as the ultimate image library.
You’ve said that “when you see a picture of a woman and almost forget the clothes, that’s where it becomes timeless”. Could you elaborate on your storytelling approach to centering your work around the woman’s personality and character? What story do you hope to tell?
My curiosity about people has always been my passion and the focus of my work. For me, the women we photograph must have personality and character to truly express themselves and engage with the process.
I deeply value the relationship and involvement of a model during a shoot; she is an integral part of the team and the creation of the image or story.
How do you use the timeless, minimalist style that you’re known for to create the stories that you tell?
We are constantly overloaded with information, so adopting a minimalist approach helps maintain focus on what’s essential. I instinctively choose looks that I’m naturally drawn to, often in neutral colors, predominantly black. It allows for greater focus and reduces distractions from the unnecessary.
Achieving simplicity and minimalism is often more challenging than it seems. It’s about staying with the essentials and making them appear effortless. It seems that timeless and minimalist is how I express myself the best.
To me, the most attractive item a woman can wear is a white T-shirt or a gray sweater. There are endless ways to showcase a white T-shirt, but the best accessory is her character and nonchalance. That’s what gives these images their timeless quality.
One image that comes to mind is Rianne [Van Rompaey] upside down in red stockings, captured by Glen Luchford. I love how Rianne does a somersault with such effortless nonchalance. In that picture, she completely represents the woman I try to showcase. I also like the absurdity of the image.
I wouldn’t consider myself a very extravagant person, but I’d describe my style as one of extravagant simplicity. It takes a certain level of self-confidence to strip things down to the bare essentials.
Are there any (personal) style icons who have shaped your sense of fashion and personal style?
I think it is the experiences in your life which shape your self expression and personal style. There were various women in my life who influenced my way of dressing, too many and too various to mention, but they all had a natural self confidence and individuality.
Donna Karan had her “Seven Easy Pieces.” What would your Seven Easy Pieces (must-have essentials) be?
- A Charvet or Schostal dress shirt;
- APC Butler jeans, worn oversized;
- A grey vintage American sweatshirt;
- An oversized white T-shirt by Carven;
- Black Prada satin slippers;
- Shorts by Carven;
- A vintage gold Rolex.
Finally, what makes something very Cabmate to you?
Natural nonchalance, timelessness, effortless simplicity, and a focus on the essentials •
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
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