For the timeless and the effortless
In the Cab With
Annagreta Panconesi
A Conversation with LUISAVIAROMA, the Italian Retailer That Redefines Modern Luxury and Celebrates Authenticity
by Bart Kooi
Over the years, what started as a modest millinery evolved into one of Italy’s most influential multi-brand concept stores, later expanding into the digital realm with LUISAVIAROMA.COM to become a leading global fashion retailer, and more recently opening its first U.S. flagship store in New York. Under the vision of Andrea Panconesi, grandson of the founders, the boutique transformed into a powerhouse of avant-garde luxury. The store was among the first in Europe to stock innovative brands, including Kenzo in 1968, setting a precedent for discovering and championing emerging talent.
Today, LUISAVIAROMA continues to shape the industry with its refined curation, blending heritage luxury with contemporary designers. In this week’s article, 'In the Cab With Annagreta Panconesi,' a conversation with LUISAVIAROMA’s Creative Director.
Before we start, if you were to introduce LUISAVIAROMA, which three key words would you use to describe it?
It’s definitely about always moving forward. But we also embody the Italian essence—being Italian brings a unique perspective. And of course, being here already for a hundred years, we are timeless.
What has been the key to LUISAVIAROMA’s enduring success, especially in maintaining its relevance as a luxury multi-brand retailer over nearly a century?
Our success comes from having the sensibility to adapt to change—not just being able to read the times, but also responding to any given cultural moment. Fashion moves fast, and we’re constantly bombarded with information. The challenge is knowing when to pause, reflect on who we are, and determine the right path forward.
Staying true to ourselves sometimes means taking unconventional routes—reinventing ourselves, staying curious, and ensuring we remain connected to the moment we’re living in. As an Italian company, we carry an innate sense of uncompromising beauty and the pioneering soul of our city, Florence — the home of culture. We have always embraced inclusivity by blending art, culture, music, and technology with fashion. This has always given us—and will continue to give us—inspiration and fresh perspectives.
Also, family has played a crucial role in our success. Luisa was my great-grandmother, and my my father has been working for the company for sixty years. You can feel the family approach behind everything we do and the commitment we bring. A family-run business is something that endures, lasting for generations to come.
Curating LUISAVIAROMA’s selection has always been our top priority—it’s what sets us apart and keeps customers coming back.
Maintaining a balanced selection is no easy task, which is why our teams rely on both experience and impeccable taste. We seek out talents who bring something different, prioritizing quality over quantity. Our focus is on brands that create value rather than volume, offering something truly exclusive. In our curation, craftsmanship, sophistication, quality, and durability of the product are essential.
The company’s vision is “redefining modern luxury and celebrating authenticity”. How is this reflected in your stores and online?
The shopping experience has always been fundamental for us. It all began with a store, and then came luisaviaroma.com. We initially launched online to stay connected with clients who didn’t live in Florence, but to fully experience what we offer, visiting the store is essential. While we strive to make the online experience as personal as possible, our stores truly give you our sense of authenticity, warmth, and curation. To us, modern luxury is about connecting with clients and creating an experience.
In our stores, we have a very carefully curated selection; we showcase only our best pieces and best brands in space that is minimalistic in design. In our stores, our vision really comes to live.
We strive to build long-term partnerships with talented designers, ensuring they can grow alongside us. We’re not interested in carrying a brand for just a season or two—our focus is on fostering organic growth in a way that feels natural and sustainable. Shared values are essential to us, particularly when it comes to quality and a touch of uniqueness.
Our style is minimal, modern, and contemporary, but always with a statement. When selecting new talents, we look for those with the potential for a lasting collaboration—brands that bring something distinctive while staying true to high standards of craftsmanship and innovation.
Is there an example of a brand that you introduced or gave stage to in recent years?
One brand we believed in from the very beginning was The Row. At first, it wasn’t an easy sell—the price point was high, and the brand was still shaping its identity. It started as a small, independent label, but we saw its potential early on and were among the first to carry it. Over time, it grew into the influential brand it is today.
You were one of the first to bring luxury fashion online back in 1999. How do you see innovation in fashion today, and what role does LUISAVIAROMA play in bringing timeless style into the future of luxury retail?
I personally love tradition and like to look at what has been done in the past. It’s important to create something modern and forward-looking while staying connected to our roots. Remaining true to ourselves, even if it means taking unconventional paths, is key to our future.
Innovation is, of course, crucial to staying relevant. We focus on timeless quality and style rather than chasing fading trends. I believe we approach the future with excitement, trusting our instincts, which are deeply grounded in our heritage.
You recently opened your first flagship store in the U.S., located on Bond Street, New York. How does this new space reflect LUISAVIAROMA's commitment to redefining luxury?
We wanted the space to be minimal from an architectural perspective, focusing on what’s essential and reducing distractions from the unnecessary. The color palette is neutral, and we place a strong emphasis on texture. It feels almost like entering a gallery, evoking tranquility and serenity. It’s a space designed for brand discovery and inspiration, where you can truly feel the essence of Italy.
The store blends heritage with innovation, offering an immersive shopping experience. Our clients can enjoy private styling sessions, exclusive events like the one we just hosted for the launch of Phoebe Philo, and access to limited-edition pieces—all within an environment that is designed to inspire. It’s a destination where fashion, art, and culture come together.
Art has always been part of our DNA, adding cultural depth to fashion. Fashion itself is a form of self-expression, and when paired with art, its message becomes even more powerful.
For LUISAVIAROMA, art reinforces our commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and individuality. It fosters a sense of discovery, making every visit a unique and inspiring experience that goes beyond fashion. Integrating art into the retail experience elevates shopping beyond a transaction—it creates an emotional and cultural connection. By showcasing artworks and inviting artists into our stores, we offer a space to truly enjoy the moment.
For our New York Store opening for example, we invited culinary artist Laila Gohar to create site-specific installations, reflecting our dedication to inclusivity and the fusion of different creative worlds. More recently, we hosted a in-store silent auction preview called “CHOICE WORKS,” with all proceeds from the auction directly supporting Planned Parenthood.
As LUISAVIAROMA’s Creative Director, you introduced your own brand, Annagreta, which “reinterprets classics with a refined, contemporary approach”. What is the vision behind Annagreta, and why does it align so well with LUISAVIAROMA?
I started the brand because, despite the many brands on the market, I still felt something was missing. The brand initially started as a modern knitwear brand, but we’re working now on total looks for womenswear that are reinventing classics. This new chapter will launch in September and each garment will be crafted to elevate your wardrobe, with meticulous attention to fabric, fit, and wearability. The aesthetic is very contemporary, with an understated attitude. It is for a very effortless who does not try to hard, with a motto of less is more.
Finding a well-made, essential, and timeless product that is made in Italy—but isn’t too classic—can be difficult. Annagreta’s fit and wearability are more modern, which makes it a natural fit for LUISAVIAROMA. It’s essential yet has a twist that gives it character and a contemporary feel.
I like brands that are versatile, easy, and effortless—modern and simple, yet still making a statement. Right now, we’re paying a lot of attention to Carven. It’s not a new brand of course, but I loved what Louise Trotter did there.
We’re also introducing Recto, a brand we don’t yet have online or in-store, and I’m really excited about it. We love Khaite—it’s always a strong performer for us. The Row, of course; and our recent launch of Phoebe Philo really represents what LUISAVIAROMA stands for today.
Brands like Róhe, Auralee, and Gabriela Hearst fit very much within my vision. And St. Agni is performing exceptionally well with us in our New York store.
- A white T-shirt is my number one item for sure;
- Second, a pair of 100% cotton denim jeans—I’d say from Citizens of Humanity or Agolde, they are doing a great job in denim;
- A pair of neutral-colored sneakers, like classic off-white Converse;
- A 100% cashmere sweater in grey;
- A double-breasted coat;
- A white cotton poplin shirt—they always goes well with everything;
- And finally, a blazer in black or navy.
But I believe any item works if you have personal character, natural nonchalance, and wear it with confidence •
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
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